Want to learn how to needle felt? The whole craft comes down to one motion: poking wool with a barbed needle until it firms up into a shape. With out actually knowing what you'll be making, this step-by-step guide will attempt to walk you through a first project, from a loose puff of wool to a firm, finished figure.
Don't know what needle felting is? Start with What Is Needle Felting? for a quick overview.
Before you start...
What we have below is a general guide, great for making something very simple and solid like a ball. In fact a ball is an excellent first project, and the starting point of most Pokeya kits. However, if you are an adventurous person that found a picture or instructions for something more elaborate online, it's better to use the instructions that came with that, especially if it was part of a kit. Why? Some shapes are more sculptural and are easier to make with stiffer wool. Some have finer detail and smooth finishes and might need a finer wool. We don't think beginners should have to worry about learning the different breeds of sheep and the texture of wool they produce, so our advice: keep it simple or invest in a needle felting kit like Pokeya's where the patterns are made for the tools and wool in the kit.
What you'll need
- Wool Roving or Batting: Wool roving and batting are both types of loose wool fibers that can be used for needle felting. Roving has all the fibers going in one direction, batting has been processed to have them in many directions. Both will work for a simple first project.
- Felting needles: a large needle (38 gauge) for shaping and a fine one (42 gauge) for finishing
- A foam pad or felting mat to work on, so the needle never hits your table
Step 1: Pull, don't cut your wool
Gently pull a tuft of wool off the bundle instead of cutting it. Pulled fibers have soft, tapered ends that blend together, while cut ends leave blunt lines. Use more wool than you think you need. Needle felting compresses wool a lot, so a finished shape often ends up half the size of the fluffy tuft you started with, or smaller.
Step 2: Roll it into a tight shape
Roll or fold the wool into a tight ball or log, like rolling up a sleeping bag. The tighter you roll, the less poking it takes to firm up. Hold the loose end against the pad so it doesn't unroll.
Step 3: Poke to firm it up
Set the shape on your foam pad and start poking with your large needle. Give a few good deep pokes near the end of loose wool so the fibers get locked in place and it's less likely for your shape to unravel. A few tips for this stage:
- Go straight in and straight out. Pull the needle out at the same angle it went in. Bending or twisting it is the main reason needles break.
- Turn the piece often. Rotate it every few pokes so it firms up evenly instead of going flat on one side.
- Poke deep to shape, shallow to smooth. Deep pokes tighten the core and shrink the shape. Shallow pokes tidy up the surface.
Keep going until the shape feels firm when you squeeze it, more like a tennis ball than a cotton ball. This takes longer than most beginners expect, and that's normal.
Step 4: Make and add parts like ears, legs, and tails
Make smaller parts separately, but leave one end loose and fluffy. Felt the rest of the part firm on the pad, then hold it against the body and needle the fluffy fibers in from several angles. Those loose fibers work like glue. Keep poking around the joint until the part feels solidly attached.
Step 5: Finish and smooth the surface
Switch to your fine needle and go over the whole piece with shallow pokes to smooth out bumps and tuck in stray fibers. If you've created a lot of deep welts with your initial poking, this is a good time to add thin layers on top with the small needle to smooth things out. Remember to tear the small pieces and overlay a few thin layers in varying directions to create that smooth surface. If a few fuzzy hairs remain, snip them off with small scissors.
Step 6: Add color and details
To add color, lay a thin, almost see-through wisp of colored wool over the surface and poke it in with shallow pokes. Thin layers blend smoothly, while thick clumps look lumpy. For eyes and other small features, roll a tiny pinch of wool between your fingers and poke it into place with your finest needle.
You can also sculpt details right into the figure. Poking repeatedly in one spot makes a dent, which is perfect for eye sockets, smiles, and toes.
How long does a first project take?
A small, simple figure usually takes a few hours, spread over one or two sessions. Don't rush the firming stage. Most beginner problems come from stopping before the wool is firm.
The easiest way to start
A beginner kit takes the guesswork out of your first project. Each Pokeya needle felting kit comes with the wool and tools you need, plus step-by-step video tutorials that show you every stage. Digby the Corgi and Shadow the Black Cat make great first projects.